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A flasher yesterday

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CHIANG MAI TREKKING: PART 2


The next morning, we ate a simple breakfast and drank some locally-grown and industrial-strength coffee, after which we were ready for more exploring.

We continued working our way along the sides of valleys, although the sides were much steeper and it was a lot more open with less tree cover than the first day. Everything was going fine, but an unexpected obstacle was about to throw down a tricky challenge.

We were spread out over quite a distance, with the stragglers some way behind, even though we were only moving at a leisurely pace. This was about to change as the head of our procession abruptly came to a halt and the tail caught up. There was a large bees’ nest hanging low from the branch of a tree, and right in the path. We had four options: walk right past the nest, climb down the valley and pass below the path, climb up the valley and pass above the path, or turn round and go back. Turning round was obviously the last option, but these bees looked mean and aggressive. A couple of us got as close as we could and one of the guides got badly stung on the head. Walking right past the bees seemed to be out of the question. This left going up and round or down and round. The slope of the valley was steep so neither option would be easy, and there were a lot of loose rocks making it even more treacherous. From my point of view, the best option seemed to be to go up and round but others were arguing and there was one old guy who would struggle to make it. He’d already had a mild asthma attack.

After some discussion, it was decided that we should split into two groups. The fitter ones, into which category I fell (or perhaps “stumbled”), would climb up and round. The others would cover up with as much clothing as possible and pass by the nest. We fit ones gave all our waterproofs and warm clothes to the less fit ones so that they could cover up as much as possible. They started to go in twos and were being instantly attacked by the defensive bees. The clothes offered just enough protection and they were making it through with just a couple of stings each.

Meanwhile, the rest of us were climbing up and round. It was slow going on the steep, loose rocks and the bees had already sensed us so we were having to go higher than we had expected to stay out of their range.

Finally, we were all past the bees’ nest. The group had suffered only a few stings, but we had lost over an hour because of this unexpected complication. Nevertheless, buoyed by overcoming the challenge together, the group was bonded. We all quickened our pace in anticipation of the next treat – the elephant trek.

I was particularly looking forward to this part of the trek as I had never ridden an elephant before. We arrived at the village to find the elephants being washed in a stream and saddled up. I paired up with a Canadian named Dave and we mounted our pachyderm ready to be majestically transported through the jungle.

It was a rough ride. Sitting in the platform seat saddle (or whatever it’s called), you are swayed relentlessly from side to side as the animal lurches along. I would certainly not call it the most comfortable ride I have ever had but after taking up the opportunity to sit on the elephant’s head briefly, I was quickly back in the saddle. It’s a long way down from the head to the ground, and when the elephant decides to lean out over a sheer drop to snap off a leaf to chew, it feels like you are being tested by the world’s biggest practical joker. Elephants are truly majestic creatures, but they make lousy taxis.

Paul Snowdon – Excerpt from Naked Farang: Four Weddings and a Coup

Related Article: Loy Kratong in Chiang Mai
Related Article: Chiang Mai Trekking: Part 1
Related Article: Chiang Mai Trekking: Part 3

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